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Had we stayed in our compartment instead of wandering down to what, I now realise, is the staff canteen, we could have had hot chicken and rice from the trolley service.

This train is not, it must be said, the Orient Express.

And she was determined to cram as much culture into our two days as she could.

In the Museum of Ethnology we explored the bamboo longhouses of the Ede forest people.

It's a dilemma: “frog porridge Singapore-style” costs 40,000 Vietnamese dong (about £1.20) but plain “frog porridge” just 28,000.

I study my laminated menu as we rattle on south through the night.

Does “Singapore-style” mean a spicier sauce, perhaps, or bigger bits of frog?

We're travelling on the Reunification Express, the historic train journey that links Hanoi in Vietnam's north with Ho Chi Minh City (still referred to locally as Saigon) in the south.On disembarking, we headed south-west – passing the stone-carving villages of Marble Mountain – on the road to My Son – an extraordinary temple complex in a valley that's described as the world's largest natural altar to Hinduism.A history of fire, conflict and neglect saw the temples reclaimed by jungle until the French “discovered” them in the 1880s.At night we sleep soundly, sharing our compartment with voluble Australian backpackers and more taciturn local commuters.By day, we watch an unbroken panorama of rural Vietnam spooling past the window: buffalo tilling the paddy fields, pagodas sprouting from the forest and rural folk cycling along embankments beneath conical non la bamboo hats.Turn a map of Vietnam on its side and you'll see a narrow yoke with a rice pannier hanging from each end.

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