The cult-level popularity of barbecue has permanently changed the old landscape.
A claim of “That’s great brisket” in Longview no longer has to be qualified with “for East Texas”; today’s pitmasters provide an excuse for a road trip to just about any far-flung corner. Thanks to Twitter, Google Maps, Facebook, and Instagram, you can get a brisket or sausage fix when and where you need it.
We were right, of course, but I did wonder: Had we peaked? This is true from Wolfforth to Mercedes and Pecos to Spring, because excellent barbecue is also more widespread.
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(Don’t worry, it won’t.) If there’s a dark side to all this, it is the cost—to our wallets and our patience.
One reason cities are dominating is that they have customer bases that can afford brisket at $20 a pound and foodies who think nothing of investing time in a barbecue line.
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This coincides with another trend: more than ever, barbecue is urban.
Lockhart was once the smoked-meat capital, with three fantastic joints on our list in 1997; this year, the town has one representative.
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